Monday, October 15

Sew Liberated Hinterland Dress Review

When my friend Sara (and Tori) announced the Hinterland sew off, I decided it was the nudge I needed to try another gathered waist dress. Its not my go to style - I've tried one and didn't love it - but do like it better on me when pregnant. So I decided to try it with some fabric in my stash. I made quite a summery version with this watermelon sandwashed rayon from Raspberry Creek Fabrics which is out of stock and grabbed these wooden (but washable) buttons from Joann Fabric and got busy. 
I made the cap sleeve, knee length version with a full button front. I decided since it has a loose fit and I want to be able to wear it after baby is born, to use my pre pregnancy measurements. Based off of my bust, that put me at a 14. I have found I fall in a larger size on this size chart than any other sewing pattern, so don't be alarmed if you do, too. Typically I need to grade out for my waist and hips but since this has a loose fit and gathered skirt I made a straight size 14. My only modifications were to shorten the bodice 1/2 inch and then curve it so its 2 inches shorter at the center front. I left the skirt the same so its a bit shorter in front, but subtle, which I like. Then I raised the neckline to the largest size. I don't need to worry about being able to get it on over my head since I have the button placket.

I obtained a closer fit on this dress because my current pregnant measurements are much larger than me pre-pregnancy ones. I have three more months to go and my bust is already 1.5 inches larger, I have no waist, and I'm sure my hips are larger too. So if you want a fit similar to this I'd try sizing down or try choosing your size off your high bust measurement instead. To be safe you could always muslin. I am pretty bad at muslining unless I'm making a wool coat, something fancy, or a big 4 pattern. But it is certainly always best practice.

The pattern calls for 11 buttons for the knee length version, but I decided thats not enough unless your shorter. It calls for 4 on the bodice and I always prefer 5 so that I can get them in the exact right spots, like at the apex to keep it from gaping. I did use the recommended 4 but I also shorted the bodice 2 inches at the center front to make the bump fit a little better but allow it to still work post partum. Even using 4 on the bodice, I used 12 buttons total. So just be aware of that going into this project. You may need more. 
Just a few other things to note:
-This pattern does not have layers, so if you are printing it at home you'll have to print out all sizes. Not a big deal but nice to have layers. 
-It calls for 3.5 yards of 54 inch wide fabric for sleeved versions but I only had 2 yards and had no issue getting it out of that. Granted I did the short sleeve but I also made a size 14.
-I did not muslin this and my darts are a bit low. That's pretty typical for me so you might not need to worry about that. They are also about an inch too short. I probably should have extended them, but its not a huge deal. 

All in all, the fit is really good on me and it works great pregnant. Obviously it won't work forever, but I don't need it to, as I made more of a spring/summer version that hopefully will work well after this little babe is born. And I did wear it to church the other day even though it was freezing. I just layered it up and it was fine!

 Check out the #hinterlandsewoff hashtag on instagram to get all the hinterland dress inspiration! This Dress has tons of options, (sleeve lengths, dress lengths, button placket or not) and people have done loads of hacks so you'll defiantly want to see them all!


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