Denim York Pinafore Pattern Review

I took a risk and got this pattern hoping I could make it what I want, but not being sure. Well for me, its safe to say the risk has paid off. The York Pinafore by Helen's Closet is a cocoon shaped, simple pinafore with large round patch pockets or a kangaroo pocket. It was a risk for me because I didn't love the pockets or the cocoon shape, but I loved the simple layering idea that could be so cute in any season just by changing the fabric. This is my third. I've made a bleached chambray one that I blogged about here, a cotton linen one I shared on istagram here, and now this one in 12 oz denim slightly stretch denim from Indie Sew.

I've made so many because I found simple changes that have made this pattern totally prefect for me. I'm a pear shape, and if you search the internet or fashion gurus for what pears "should wear" I do basically the opposite. They say fit and flare, gathered waists, a-line, defined waist, etc. But I actually prefer straight fit things to minimize the appearance of the curve of my hips. This pattern has a large curve through the whole side seam and tapers in at the knee to give it that cocoon shape. While this fits my shape quite perfectly, it also shows off that shape, which I don't like to accentuate. The curve of the pockets on the hips also does the opposite of what I want. I like angled patch pockets to break up that curve. 

 

So to eliminate the cocoon shape and get a straighter fit, I simply straightened out the side seam by not grading out to the proper size for my hips. The size chart put me at a large graded to extra large for the hips. I made my first one like that and then figured how much to bring in the side seams. Once it got fitting right I compared it to the original pattern and it was just the straight large size. So that is the same thing I've done for all three I have made now. I then also drafted (I use that term loosely because I just drew out the shape of pocket I wanted and made it sort of similar in size to the one included in the pattern) and used them instead of the pocket pieces included. I just finished those curve edges of the pocket in bias tape, did a double line of topstitching around the pockets, and viola! A thick denim pinafore for fall with large angled patch pockets. Also without any other adjustments it fits my bump! Granted it won't work forever but its going strong at 24 weeks. 

I am super pleased with my huge angled patch pockets. They hold everything, are nice and deep, and the angles are exactly the look I was going for. I love having a thick denim York for fall, its so cute layered with a cardigan and tights, and I think it will work well in summer too, so yay for versatility!

Since we're in full on Autumn here, I paired this one with a True Bias Nikko top. I shortened the long sleeve (it comes with sleeveless or long sleeve options) to right above the elbow and did a maternity mod on it - that obviously you can't see. But its super simple - just add 4 inches at the lengthen/shorten line on the front piece only. Then gather the sides of the front until they are the same length as the back piece. Then sew together like normal. The Nikko is the perfect piece to go under this but I've seen people layer them with looser woven tops and its super cute, too.

Are you into the pinafore trend or is too elementary school for you? I thought I couldn't get on board but I am super happy I did. Now I wonder if I'll ever be aboard the jumpsuit trend...?

Sew Liberated Hinterland Dress Review

When my friend Sara (and Tori) announced the Hinterland sew off, I decided it was the nudge I needed to try another gathered waist dress. Its not my go to style - I've tried one and didn't love it - but do like it better on me when pregnant. So I decided to try it with some fabric in my stash. I made quite a summery version with this watermelon sandwashed rayon from Raspberry Creek Fabrics which is out of stock and grabbed these wooden (but washable) buttons from Joann Fabric and got busy. 

I made the cap sleeve, knee length version with a full button front. I decided since it has a loose fit and I want to be able to wear it after baby is born, to use my pre pregnancy measurements. Based off of my bust, that put me at a 14. I have found I fall in a larger size on this size chart than any other sewing pattern, so don't be alarmed if you do, too. Typically I need to grade out for my waist and hips but since this has a loose fit and gathered skirt I made a straight size 14. My only modifications were to shorten the bodice 1/2 inch and then curve it so its 2 inches shorter at the center front. I left the skirt the same so its a bit shorter in front, but subtle, which I like. Then I raised the neckline to the largest size. I don't need to worry about being able to get it on over my head since I have the button placket.

I obtained a closer fit on this dress because my current pregnant measurements are much larger than me pre-pregnancy ones. I have three more months to go and my bust is already 1.5 inches larger, I have no waist, and I'm sure my hips are larger too. So if you want a fit similar to this I'd try sizing down or try choosing your size off your high bust measurement instead. To be safe you could always muslin. I am pretty bad at muslining unless I'm making a wool coat, something fancy, or a big 4 pattern. But it is certainly always best practice.

The pattern calls for 11 buttons for the knee length version, but I decided thats not enough unless your shorter. It calls for 4 on the bodice and I always prefer 5 so that I can get them in the exact right spots, like at the apex to keep it from gaping. I did use the recommended 4 but I also shorted the bodice 2 inches at the center front to make the bump fit a little better but allow it to still work post partum. Even using 4 on the bodice, I used 12 buttons total. So just be aware of that going into this project. You may need more. 

Just a few other things to note:

-This pattern does not have layers, so if you are printing it at home you'll have to print out all sizes. Not a big deal but nice to have layers. 

-It calls for 3.5 yards of 54 inch wide fabric for sleeved versions but I only had 2 yards and had no issue getting it out of that. Granted I did the short sleeve but I also made a size 14.

-I did not muslin this and my darts are a bit low. That's pretty typical for me so you might not need to worry about that. They are also about an inch too short. I probably should have extended them, but its not a huge deal. 

All in all, the fit is really good on me and it works great pregnant. Obviously it won't work forever, but I don't need it to, as I made more of a spring/summer version that hopefully will work well after this little babe is born. And I did wear it to church the other day even though it was freezing. I just layered it up and it was fine!

 Check out the #hinterlandsewoff hashtag on instagram to get all the hinterland dress inspiration! This Dress has tons of options, (sleeve lengths, dress lengths, button placket or not) and people have done loads of hacks so you'll defiantly want to see them all!