Thursday, January 3

2018 Sewing - a year in review

Contrary to my goal this year of slowing down, I sewed a tonnnnn of things this year. And while many would be stoked about that, I'm a little bit sad. I mean not really, because I love them and really made things that work for me. But I like keeping goals, too...

I did manage to keep track of everything I sewed this year; how many yards I sewed, how many yards I bought, how many patterns I bought and how many of those I have sewn since buying. Because tracking keeps me aware and should hypothetically help keep myself in check. Especially as I wanted to sew my stash this year and buy less.  I'll review the progress of all my goals below, but I can say my stash has shrunk a lot. Like a lot a lot. Partly because I just admitted to myself which fabric purchases were duds and aren't my style and I donated them. I donated loads of scraps and full yardage to a shelter down town that teaches refugee women to sew and I feel great about that.

So since this is a review of my sewing for the year, I'll review my goals, my make nine, what I've sewn, who I've sewn for, patterns I've bought, and how I'm feeling about the year.

So here we go - lets start with my Make Nine from last year.

Make Nine 2018

Here is the make nine I created last January:




The make nine has kind of a bad rap this year. Its seems like everyone was exited to jump on board last year but then they didn't succeed at making very many of them so now no one wants to commit to one. Well the make nine works for me because I'm not really distracted by all the new shiny patterns. I know what I like and what works on my body and I pretty much stick to it. So committing to 9 garments at the beginning of the year was easy. I put a lot of thought into creating my make 9 - what patterns I had, what fabric I had, what I wanted to wear and what I needed. And that meant that I succeeded and made all of these! In fact I made all of them by May haha. (I think if I want a challenge I probably need to make a 2019 make 19!)

 Finished Make Nine

The only thing I swapped out was the Sew Over it Alex shirt because I realized it didn't have a collar stand and I wanted a button up shirt with a real collar. So I made the Kalle Shirt instead and I LOVE it. I made 2 and have plans for me. Then, because I loved the shape of that shirt so much I also made the melilot, another dolman button up but with a much slimmer silhouette and am digging it too. I see more of those in my future as well.

I made the knee length shorts version of the Chi-Town Chinos and they also became a quick favorite. In fact, I made two  pairs and wore them all Summer. I also made two Sarah Shirts and two of Mcalls 7380. I think two is a trend for me. I also have more pairs of Morgan jeans planned for this year.

Ok now lets move onto a review of 2018 Goals

1. Sew less. Meaning, slow down and don't sew so many items because I don't need a lot more. This did not happen. Granted, I made much nicer, quality pieces and my old ones have pretty much all been donated, rehomed, or turned into something else.

2. Reduce. Sew up the patterns I haven't ever made and use up my stash. To do this I tried to buy fewer patterns and wait until I'm ready to make a project to buy the pattern. Also I tried to sew twice as many yards as I bought. And I did this! I'm super happy about it. I still probably bought too much, but since I sewed a lot it all worked out. I also did sew up quite a few patterns I hadn't made but owned for years. In a few cases this backfired as they weren't my style anymore, but in some it turned out to be a big win! (Side note - after writing this post I bought 10 yards of fabric - during Boxing Day or end of year sales. But since none of it has arrived and its January...I'm counting that as fabric for this year. That's a cop out I know, but...I'm taking it anyway.)

3. Be patient. Take time to make the right adjustments so that garments turn out better and fit great so that I love them when they're done. This I did, too! I feel really happy with the garments in my closet. They fit so much better and I love wearing them. Im very grateful I took the time to learn the adjustments I need and then actually take the time to do them. And a note on that, you don't need fancy fitting books or to take a class to figure this out. I highly recommend this youtube channel, where I learned all the adjustments I make. Also a lot of patterns, like jeans patterns, come with fitting guides and blog posts to walk you through issues you may be having. You don't need to invest a bunch of time and money to figuring out fitting. Ok so you need to invest some time...but that's it.

Sewing Item Recap

Alright we're moving right along to what I sewed, how much I sewed, who I sewed for, and what patterns I bought, so here you go. Skip this if you don't want a lottttt of info thrown at you...

I have made 140 items (according to list on my phone) that break down to the following categories:

(PS the math isn't even close to adding up with this, but it was a lot of data that I figured you guys won't care too much about so a rough estimate is good enough for me. )

For Husband: 2 items
Cardigans: 2


For my Kids: 33 items
Underwear: 2
Swimsuits: 3
Knit Tops (tees, pajama tops, sweaters, sweatshirts): 8
Dresses/skirts/pinafores: 10
Knit Bottoms (Pajama bottoms/Leggings/Sweatpants/Shorts): 10


For Me: 70
Swimwear: 1
Jeans/shorts: 3
Leggings: 2
Cardigans: 3
Joggers and other pants: 4
Skirts: 6
Sweatshirts/hoodies/sweaters: 8
Jackets/Coats/Outerwear: 6
Tees/gym tanks: 10
Dresses/pinafores: 12
Woven Tops: 17

For Gifts: 20 items
Parents/siblings: 3
Neice/Nephew birthday gifts: 7
Baby Gifts: 10

---------------------------------

Fabric
I bought 88 yards of fabric (yikes) and sewed 177 yards of fabric. I have kept it at a 2:1 ratio of sewn yardage to bought yardage all year and I'm so proud of that. And I'm happy because the fabric in my stash is stuff I love. I have waisted a lot of money in the past buying fabric I later learned I didn't like. So now the fabric I do have is fabric worth owning, sewing, and wearing and that makes me feel good. Its also almost all solid colors which I'm totally down with and different from years past.

Favorite fabrics to wear and sew:
tencel twill
rayon twill
good quality rayon challis
linen rayon blends
heavier weight cotton denims (about 12 oz)
bamboo cotton French terry


Favorite places to buy fabric:
Raspberry Creek Fabrics
Blackbird Fabrics
Fabric dot com
Mood Fabrics
Threadbare Fabrics - for denim and jeans kits

(Those are my main ones, I occasionally check out these other places but rarely buy from them)

D&H Fabrics - new shop- I'll probably buy more from here in the future
Stylemaker Fabric
Imagine Gnats
LA Finch Fabrics

Patterns
I bought 18 patterns this year and have already sewn up 12 of them (and have 2 more cut out and ready to sew). Also I bought 6 of them since black Friday... I was doing really good till then. I have been trying to not buy a pattern until I'm ready to sew it, but if it was a pattern I've been eyeing for years but can't make right now because of the bump, I went ahead and bought it. And I'm excited about sewing them up in the new year! (Only one of them I regret buying, and its a jean shorts pattern that I realized I should have skipped and just modified a jeans pattern I already have and fits me. Oh well. Maybe I'll still try it. We shall see.)

The patterns I bought were:
Newcastle Cardigan - Thread Theory - sewn twice
Ginger Jean Flares  - Closet Case
Walker Jean shorts - DIBY
Kalle Shirt/dress - Closet Case - sewn twice with two more planned
York Pinafore - Helens Closet - sewn three times
Fiona Sundress - Closet Case - sewn once
Melilot Shirt - Deer and Doe - sewn once
Givre Maternity tee/dress - Deer and Doe - sewn three times
Nikko Top/dress - True Bias - sewn twice
Blackwood Cardigan - Helens Closet - sewn once
Tabor V Neck - sewn once but another is ready to cut out
Berlin Jacket - Tessuti - sewn once
Dove Blouse - Megan Nielson - sewn once but want to make lots more
Kendrick Overalls - Hey June
Brunswick Pullover - Hey June - sewn twice
Lodo Dress - True Bias - cut out and ready to sew
Dawn Jeans - Megan Nielson
Jarrah Sweater - Megan Nielson - cut out and ready to sew


Alright well if all of that info didn't overwhelm you its a miracle! But I like to have this information to look back on and compare to other years. I am still solidifying my plans for this year but since I'm expecting baby #3 in 4 weeks, I want to be realistic about my time and energy, and also what I will wear. So I'm taking my time and being deliberate about it. Same with my goals, but I'll share them when they are all ready!

Monday, December 17

Sewing Hits of 2018

Alright sewing friends, like I mentioned in my Sewing Misses post, this year was so good in the sewing arena. I had so many hits and so few misses that these posts have been hard to write. They were hard to write last year too, but for the opposite reason. So many misses it was hard to narrow it down! 

I spent quite a while narrowing my hits down to five, so these patterns that I'm sharing here are serious winners in my book. There are others I super love and only very narrowly missed this list.

I also must mention - I am the literal worst at getting photos of my makes. It takes so much time planning and with two kids and one on the way its been harder than ever this year. And of course now that I want to snap photos in them for you, I'm way too pregnant to fit into most. So you get some real life crappy photos taken throughout the year in places like Harry Pitter World, random parks, the cemetery on Memorial Day, etc.  You're welcome:) At least its proof these patterns are tried and tested and worn on the daily.

So here we go!




This is a Melissa Watson pattern with Palmer and Pletsch fitting instructions so its easy to get a great fit the first time. Its a shirt dress with buttons down to the natural waist, a hidden button placket, collar and collar stand, 3/4 sleeves (or sleeveless option), a partial elastic back for a comfortable fit, and an a-line paneled skirt with a curved hem.

This dress is so flattering on me and a style I love. I've made these two, both out of rayon challis, but I want to make another one next year in a solid color. Maybe in a tencel twill or rayon linen.  

I did make some alterations to get this look. I added 3 inches to the skirt to get it knee length and added more length to the sides which reduced the dramatic curve of the hem. In the navy one, I altered the pattern to use the short sleeve from the highlands wrap dress, and I did an exposed button placket instead of concealed (although you can't really see it in this busy print.) I have a blog post on it here if you want to see and read more.

 4. Chi Town Chino knee length shorts:

This is such a versatile and useful pattern to have. I have the full expansion pack which gives you mid thigh shorts, skirt, full pants, and these knee length Bermudas. They are a chino style without a true waist band, but a waistband facing that comes together really nice and looks great. They have a center back extension which makes adjustments for all sizes really easy, no matter what your waist to hip ratio is. My only adjustments were to add 1.5 inches to the rise to get a higher mid rise instead of the true mid rise they come with. And I slimmed them quite a bit just because my upper thigh is so much larger than my lower thigh so they were enormous at the bottom. But that is super easy to do. I absolutely love this pattern and wore them loads this spring and summer. Like to my sister's home in California, to Harry Potter World, and everywhere else I went every day. 



 Its shocking how much I wore these tops this year and yet I have no photos. So let these photos suffice. And although that's a horrible quality photo from Harry Potter World (paired with my pink chi town chinos) it shows I really wore these eveywhere. I've made two of these, both in the cropped view with 3 inches of length added. After I have the baby I plan to make the tunic one (in a regular shirt length without such a dramatic curved hem in the back) and the dress. I want all the versions. The cropped ones (with added length) are easy to wear with my gingers, morgans, chi towns, and basically all other bottoms that I have.

There are plenty of options in this pattern but both of mine are full button ups with the collar and collar stand. Maybe I'll make the popover version with a mandarin collar next. And both of mine are made in rayon linen, which I love for this shape. Just enough structure for a button up and to show the body of the pattern, and also enough drape as to not add too much bulk from quite a boxy top. But I think for the true shirt length and dress I'll use something with more drape like a rayon poplin, challis, or tencel.


I made my first Farrow last year and liked it, but it was enormous. I mean, it fit as intended but huge tent dresses don't look great on me. So this year I figured out the perfect fit for me (a 12 graded down to a 6 - I have a whole post on that here) and this year made two more. The navy one I haven't really been able to wear yet. I wore it once but then I was too big for it (I made it while pregnant) so I'm just waiting to have this baby and then it should be the perfect loose fitting postpartum dress. If you go by your measurements and make your actual size, you could wear this your entire pregnancy which would be a plus. My adjustments to this pattern were the sizing changes, a broad back adjustment, shortening the sleeves and adding 3 inches in length.


Favorite jeans ever! Button fly, non stretch denim, cropped length. I absolutely cannot wait to make more pairs next year. I made these in a 10oz rigid denim from Threadbare Fabrics. Next I want to try them in a heavier fabric and with an exposed button fly. I love the rise on these. Its called a mid rise but its quite high on me still and although I always love a a true high rise, I find this rise the most flattering and comfortable on me. I want this same rise on all my jeans. I think I'll try the Dawn jeans next year and do a full comparison for those interested.

---

Ok,  I know that's five but there are two other patterns I simply can't leave off the 'hits' list. 





I made this back in January during the #coatmakingparty that I hosted on instagram with Rachel and Nicole. I am sooooo glad I made this. It is currently the only coat I own that will still button around my 33 week belly, and its warm, cozy and cute too. I used melton double faced wool from Mood and a Robert Kauffman mammoth plaid flannel from Raspberry Creek Fabrics with rayon in the sleeves. I wore this from January-March and now its back in heavy rotation. 

This was my first real coat is a fabulous pattern to start with. Its a-line so you don't have a lot of fitting to do. It has raglan sleeves so you don't need to ease in thick wool sleeves. Just bust darts and a two piece sleeve for a good fit. I added some fish eye darts in the back of mine because I should have done a sway back, but because the loose nature of this coat, that wasn't even essential, just my preference. I also added two, or maybe three, inches to make it a but longer for me. I seriously love it and wear it all the time.








I tested this pattern back in January/February and then immediately made another. And both are definitely in the 30 wears club. I wear one pretty much daily over a zip up Halifax hoodie to the gym. This is a great casual jacket because its fully lined but loose and doesn't require fitting. It has a hood option, two different pocket options and drawstring options as well. Its a total staple in my wardrobe and if you haven't made one, you should. Also, I blogged about this here if you want to see and read more about sizing, etc.

Ok, now I'm done. Apparently I couldn't keep it to five this year. Just too many things on my 'super successful sews' list this year!

So what's on yours? Did you have any hits you just need to shout about, because I'm all ears! Or was it more of a misses year, like last year was for me? Let me know!

Wednesday, December 12

Sewing Misses of 2018

You guys, I have a fabulous story for you! When I wrote these hits and misses posts last year, I had so many misses it look ages to get my list down to the top 5. But this year - it's the opposite! I have had so many wins now that I've really determined my style, that it took a lot of thought to come up with my misses. And even though I'm calling these my misses, there is nothing wrong with these patterns. It was just that the fabric choice, fit or style was just off for me. 

So here we go, lets get to it. 




 Now don't get me wrong - this is an awesome pattern. All of these are great patterns, like I said. But for whatever reason I have not been able to make it fit me well, or at least fit my style and the rest of my clothes. I don't know why because I love to just look at it. I tried to wear it loads of times. And this is even the second one I made. I made my first one last year but it came up too big, despite grading between the sizes and doing a baste fit. It just kept falling so low on me, but I actually did wear that one a lot and kept it to wear while pregnant. Granted....I haven't worn it this pregnancy.

Then I made this one and sized down, as it has 10% stretch. But somehow, despite being the same measurements as I was the last time I made this pattern, this one is just *barely too small. Like it gets on and seems to fit fine but it has to stretch a little across the bum and I don't like how that looks on me. I feel like it should all fit a tiny bit loose, but not as loose as my last one since that one wouldn't stay on.  I even bleached it thinking maybe it was too dark a wash to be paired with the lighter color tops I was trying to wear with it this Spring. But bleaching it didn't make me like any more than I did before. So I rehomed it to a friend. I am still not done trying similar styles though. I bought the Kendrick Overalls and want to make the skirt view with the straps next spring. So maybe I'll like that better..





 I have had this pattern, (and the next pattern I am going to talk about) for years and one my goals this year was to sew up patterns I own but have never made. If I was true to myself I probably would have just skipped it, knowing it's not exactly my style currently. I actually like the woven dolman style with the placket, but this pattern has a woven front and a knit back, and I knew the knit back would annoy me. But I sewed it up anyways. And of course, I don't like the knit back. I prefer the light, non clingy drape of wovens on my back side as I find them more flattering. I also don't prefer a lot of contrast in my garments and having two different fabrics going on, even if one is a solid ivory, bothers me. So although I love the look of this top from the front, I only wear it if its cold and I know I'll be wearing a cardigan or light jacket with it all day. Honestly, I still have it and might continue to wear it occasionally, but won't make another one. 

3. Lane top



I thought about not including this because I don't even have photos of it, but I've included listing photos so you have an idea.  It's a woven, straight fit top, with a breast pocket, round neck, and bias bound neckline. This fit just fine technically but it has loads of ease and though it fit like it was supposed to (I think?) it just felt too big all over. It doesn't look so big in the listing photos, but it was on me. Also this pattern, (and the last one I spoke about) come suuuuper long. I'm 5'8" and my length is all in my torso and it was still super long. I should mention part of the problem of me not loving this was that I used an olive rayon challis. I love olive, but it has to be sort of a greyed out hue, not yellowed. And I used quite a yellow olive and hated the color. So its been re-homed, too. And while I could try this again in a size down and different fabric, there's just nothing striking or interesting to make me want to.  I have plenty of other things I want to make and I really like collars, buttons, plackets, hi low hem, facings, or something to give a top more interest. 
So I'll be done with this pattern.

 I know, I know - this is controversial. The Linden is one of the sewing world's most popular patterns. But for me it just didn't suit. I followed the size chart but felt like I could have sized down 3 sizes and still have a reasonable amount of ease. Also the angle of the raglan sleeves doesn't work well on my body. You can't see it here but it gave me loads of excess fabric in my arm pit. I know you'll always have some of that with a raglan, but other raglans, like the Hey June Lane Raglan, fits me better and doesn't do that so much. 

Now, I maaaaaay try this one again. Maybe. I only say that because I used a cotton spandex french terry with quite a lot of stretch. Like 70% or something. So I think  I could make this in something with lots less stretch and possibly like it more. The pattern calls for mid weight knits with at least 20% stretch. So maybe if I used something with only 20% it would fit better. But honestly, as is, I have only worn this maybe twice. (I did make some changes, so maybe that has something to do with it..? I left off the waistband, added 3 inches, and did side vents. Cause I love me some side vents.)


This pattern was another that I kind of guessed I wouldn't like. But I was so desperate for some pants that fit well while pregnant that I ignored my gut. This pattern is more of a dress pant style, with optional back welt pocket and center seaming. It also comes with a maternity option, and so few pants patterns do. Since none of my rtw maternity jeans really fit, I decided to give these a try. 

 These are drafted for stable knits with at least 20% stretch. As I have very curvy hips and legs, and prefer jeans will basically no stretch for a more flattering fit, I knew I wouldn't use a knit. The pattern also says you can use wovens if they have at least 30% stretch. So although that's a lot of stretch in a pant for me, I went for it. I used some 9 oz cone mills denim I got from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. The pattern does have waist, hip, thigh, and calf measurements which I love. It made it really easy to grade to the right sizes to get a good fit - essential for me because my measurements are all over the place. I made the over the belly maternity option and used cotton lycra for the band. I also wanted these to look more like true jeans, so I added faux front pockets, stitched a faux fly, and added the back pockets from the ginger jeans pattern. Although they never even got sewn on.

Because of course, the reason I suspected I wouldn't like these turned out to be true. Using only a mid weight denim with so much stretch for jeans was doomed to be unflattering on me. Although they do fit, I haven't even hemmed or sewn the pockets on them because I have no plans to wear these where any human eyes, including my own, can see them. So, if you like fitted knit pants, you'll love these. 
But they definitely aren't for me. 

I think I'll take these apart and turn them into pants for my daughter. 
Its the perfect denim for nice jeans or jeggings for her. 

---

So there you go - my five misses this year. I have sewn over one hundred items this year (that includes lots of kid stuff) and these are really the only 5 things that didn't work out so well. I am so pleased with that! Do you have a lot of misses this year? If so, it's ok. That was me last year and it was a year of learning and growth in the sewing arena. And for me and thats worth a lot as it paid off this year with really knowing my style, fabric preferences and how to get a good fit.





Friday, November 16

How To: make a lined Berlin Jacket



I've wanted to make a Berlin Jacket since last year and as I'm entering the rather large stage of pregnancy this seemed like the perfect project right now. Its not meant to close and is loose and oversized so I don't need to worry about fitting it and it will work now and later without any sizing issues. 

The pattern is meant for boiled wool (a knitted fabric) so I shopped around and pulled the trigger on this taupe boiled wool from Blackbird Fabrics (mine is currently sold out but other colors are in stock) after really loving my first experience with boiled wool I picked up from Mood. But when the taupe wool arrived it was much more scratchy and lighter weight than the wool I had worked with before. I still liked it and knew it would work for my project but that I would definitely prefer this jacket to be lined so I wouldn't have to feel the itchiness against my skin. 



The Berlin Jacket is drafted to be unlined and finished with overlapping seams so all the raw edges are exposed. It looks really cool, but I've never been able to buy into the raw edge, unhemmed trend so I had already planned on constructing it in a more typical fashion - right sides together with the seams inside. So adding a lining would be pretty straight forward.

I happened to have the perfect poly crepe lying around - another purchase from Blackbird but from a year ago. I've made several fully lined jackets and coats so I figured I could muddle my way through it all right. I did some things that weren't great and figured out better methods as I went. I thought I would share this tutorial and what I learned with all of you! I am far from a pattern drafter so some of this may not be up to your standards, but for a free hacked add-on lining, it works really well and I'm getting loads of wear out of it.

You don't need to have lined a coat before to do this. Its pretty straight forward. I made the Lola Coat - another unlined coat -from Sew Over It's City Break e Book back in January and had never lined a coat before and still found a way to line it. It works great. So if you're wanting to line the Berlin - don't be afraid - here's how I did it!

-----------

First, you'll need to cut some pieces with larger seam allowance and some pieces different altogether. so here's what you'll do when cutting out your pieces:

                                              First we will cut your main fabric:











1. For the front and back pieces, add one inch in length at the hem. If you're wanting to add length for yourself anyway, add one extra inch than you planned on. You'll also need to add 3/8 inch to the center front of the front pieces. I didn't do this, but should have, in order to maintain the width of the front pieces once the lining is sewn in. 

2. For the front facings, you need to add 3/8 seam allowance to both long ends. You can see here, I only added it on one end, not thinking correctly. I told you I figured a lot out doing this! And mine is still great so hopefully yours will be fabulous!


3. For the pocket and pocket facing, you need to add 3/8 in seam allowance on ALL sides. The pockets are originally sewn on raw, but if you want them to have finished edges you need to add the seam allowance.

4. For the sleeves you need to add 3/8 inch seam allowance to the end. I added an inch because I wanted the sleeves just a little bit longer. And for the sleeve facing, you need to add the seam allowance to both long sides. 

Now we'll cut your lining pieces:

5. For the back lining piece, I added an inch (really two because its folded) at the center back along the fold. To do this I just moved the pattern piece one inch away from the fold and cut out my piece. This allows you to pleat the back at the center of the neck and gives more movement. Especially as this pattern is drafted for knit (stretchy) fabrics and your lining will most likely be woven (not stretchy). The extra fabric ensures proper movement.

For the front lining pieces you have to create a new piece but its easy to do.

6. First, place your facing pattern piece over the top of your front pattern piece aligning the edges. Then trace down the left edge of the facing, drawing a line on the front pattern piece. Also draw a line across the top of the shoulder line. You won't need that neck extension piece on your lining. 

7. Then add 3/8 inch to the right of the line you just drew (red) and draw a new line (blue). Fold the piece back over along that new line (blue). This is your new front lining piece piece! Cut two mirrored.

8. For the sleeve lining, shorten the sleeve two inches at the hem, then cut two mirrored.

Next, I recommend interfacing your facing pieces. I did not but wish I did as they kind of want to turn out to the outside of my jacket.

Now you are all done cutting!

 On to construction!

You'll need to disregard pretty much all of the construction instructions. Since we are lining it we'll be sewing it right sides together with a 3/8 seam allowance instead of the overlapped method they use. 

We'll start with the pockets. If you want them to have finished edges follow these instructions. If you want to do the raw edge look included in the pattern, follow the instructions there.


1. With wrong side facing you, turn up one long edge of the pocket facing 3/8 in. 

2. Right sides together, align the top raw edge of the facing with the top of the pocket. Sew them together at the top at 3/8 in.

3. Sew the sides of the facing to the pocket, maintaining the fold. Clip the corners, grade seam and turn the facing to the back of the pocket. Press the raw edges of the pocket to wrong side at 3/8 in. Top stitch the facing to the pocket.

Repeat for other pocket.

4. Using pins or wonder tape, attach your pockets to the front pieces using the markings on the pattern for location. Use a 1/8 sa to sew the pockets to the front pieces. Sew bar tacks or some reinforcing stitch to the top corners. 

All done with pockets!

Now we'll move on to constructing the outer shell of your jacket.

1. Sew the front pieces right sides together at the back neck at 3/8 in. 

2. Attach the fronts to the back piece at the shoulder/neck, aligning the center back of the neck with the center back of the jacket.
3. Right sides together, attach the sleeves at the armscye.
4. Sew the side seams/arms closed. 

At this point you can try on your outer jacket. If you want to make any adjustments, now is the time do so. You can see here I decided to slim the sleeves. They were just too wide for me. Remember, any adjustments you make at this point will need to be made to your lining pieces as well. Since I slimmed my sleeves I slimmed my lining pieces too. 
5. Sew the sleeve facing right sides together at the short ends so that if forms a tube. Press seam allowance open. Repeat for other facing. 

6. Right sides together, sew the sleeve facing to sleeve at 3/8. Press seam allowance toward to the facing and understich at 1/8 in. 

All done constructing the outer layer!

No we will construct the lining!

3. Sew the facings right sides together at the center back.  Press seam allowance open.
 4. With the back lining piece still folded at the center back, we'll be sewing a pleat 1 inch in from the fold. Starting at the top raw edge, sew 2 inches down.
5.  Open up the lining piece so the right side is facing up. Press the pleat open and baste the pleat in place along the top edge.

6. Right sides together sew the front and back lining pieces together at the shoulder seams. 

7. Right sides together attach sleeves at armscye.

8. Sew sides/arms closed right sides together at 3/8 leaving about 6 inches open in the middle of one side seam.
9. Attach the facing to the lining: start at the back lining, right sides together, matching the center back point of facing with the pleat. Continue pinning all the way down the front of the front pieces. Sew the facing on all the way around at 3/8. Your facing and lining should be the same length at the hem. Trim facing if they aren't. Press seam allowance toward the facing and understich at 1/8 in. 

Here is where I pretty much run out of photos ... I just wanted to get it done because I was so close. So hopefully I can get your through this without tons of photos..

Lets attach the lining to the outer!

If you have made a lined coat/jacket before, your knowledge here will come in handy. Or you can kind of go off instructions of one of those patterns to get through this. But its not hard I promise. 

1. Right sides together, align your facing/lining and outer jacket starting at the center back and pinning all the way down to the hem. The lining will be shorter than the outer. Sew at 3/8 in. Press seam allowance toward the facing. Turn right side out and and understich on the facing at 1/8 in. 

2. Turn back inside out. Make sure all four arms are pulled out fully. Making sure not to twist the arms, align the opening of LEFT outer and lining sleeve openings and RIGHT outer and lining sleeve openings. You'll need to pin them with right sides together, even though the wrong sides are facing you. This will look wrong and like it doesn't make sense but it works!
Sew them together at 3/8.
Now we'll be sewing the bottom closed. Since I am no drafter, I kind of fudge this. I have done mitered hems on lined jackets before but I couldn't figure out how to do it here, so here's what I did. (If you know how to do it properly or have a pattern you can follow - do that.) 

3. Leaving everything inside out, sew the lining to the outer at the hem at 3/8. You'll have to do some easing as the lining is 2 inches wider than the outer. Also remember, the lining is shorter than the outer so you'll have to fold up the outer to meet the lining. 

4. Using the opening in the side seam lining, turn the whole jacket right side out. 
This should sort of feel like magic!

Now you'll get to see what your hem looks like. Because I didn't do mitered corners, I had to do some hand stitching in the corners. Make them look as neat as you can with what ever method you used.
5. Press the hem of your jacket up one inch. This should happen pretty naturally since the lining is shorter and pulls the outer fabric up but press the hem in place, crating a nice clean hem line. 

6. Using a hand sewing needle and thread, sew the opening in the side seam closed. (Or you could be lazy like me and just machine sew it closed)

7. To keep the lining and outer attached, stitch in the ditch at the center back of the facing (or hand stitch) for a few inches) 

You are done! 

You lined an unlined pattern - so basically you are amazing!



If you have any questions let me know so I can help you through it. I am pretty active on instagram stories here too so I can walk you through something if you need.  

Happy sewing!