Wednesday, December 12

Sewing Misses of 2018

You guys, I have a fabulous story for you! When I wrote these hits and misses posts last year, I had so many misses it look ages to get my list down to the top 5. But this year - it's the opposite! I have had so many wins now that I've really determined my style, that it took a lot of thought to come up with my misses. And even though I'm calling these my misses, there is nothing wrong with these patterns. It was just that the fabric choice, fit or style was just off for me. 

So here we go, lets get to it. 

 Now don't get me wrong - this is an awesome pattern. All of these are great patterns, like I said. But for whatever reason I have not been able to make it fit me well, or at least fit my style and the rest of my clothes. I don't know why because I love to just look at it. I tried to wear it loads of times. And this is even the second one I made. I made my first one last year but it came up too big, despite grading between the sizes and doing a baste fit. It just kept falling so low on me, but I actually did wear that one a lot and kept it to wear while pregnant. Granted....I haven't worn it this pregnancy.

Then I made this one and sized down, as it has 10% stretch. But somehow, despite being the same measurements as I was the last time I made this pattern, this one is just *barely too small. Like it gets on and seems to fit fine but it has to stretch a little across the bum and I don't like how that looks on me. I feel like it should all fit a tiny bit loose, but not as loose as my last one since that one wouldn't stay on.  I even bleached it thinking maybe it was too dark a wash to be paired with the lighter color tops I was trying to wear with it this Spring. But bleaching it didn't make me like any more than I did before. So I rehomed it to a friend. I am still not done trying similar styles though. I bought the Kendrick Overalls and want to make the skirt view with the straps next spring. So maybe I'll like that better..

 I have had this pattern, (and the next pattern I am going to talk about) for years and one my goals this year was to sew up patterns I own but have never made. If I was true to myself I probably would have just skipped it, knowing it's not exactly my style currently. I actually like the woven dolman style with the placket, but this pattern has a woven front and a knit back, and I knew the knit back would annoy me. But I sewed it up anyways. And of course, I don't like the knit back. I prefer the light, non clingy drape of wovens on my back side as I find them more flattering. I also don't prefer a lot of contrast in my garments and having two different fabrics going on, even if one is a solid ivory, bothers me. So although I love the look of this top from the front, I only wear it if its cold and I know I'll be wearing a cardigan or light jacket with it all day. Honestly, I still have it and might continue to wear it occasionally, but won't make another one. 

3. Lane top

I thought about not including this because I don't even have photos of it, but I've included listing photos so you have an idea.  It's a woven, straight fit top, with a breast pocket, round neck, and bias bound neckline. This fit just fine technically but it has loads of ease and though it fit like it was supposed to (I think?) it just felt too big all over. It doesn't look so big in the listing photos, but it was on me. Also this pattern, (and the last one I spoke about) come suuuuper long. I'm 5'8" and my length is all in my torso and it was still super long. I should mention part of the problem of me not loving this was that I used an olive rayon challis. I love olive, but it has to be sort of a greyed out hue, not yellowed. And I used quite a yellow olive and hated the color. So its been re-homed, too. And while I could try this again in a size down and different fabric, there's just nothing striking or interesting to make me want to.  I have plenty of other things I want to make and I really like collars, buttons, plackets, hi low hem, facings, or something to give a top more interest. 
So I'll be done with this pattern.

 I know, I know - this is controversial. The Linden is one of the sewing world's most popular patterns. But for me it just didn't suit. I followed the size chart but felt like I could have sized down 3 sizes and still have a reasonable amount of ease. Also the angle of the raglan sleeves doesn't work well on my body. You can't see it here but it gave me loads of excess fabric in my arm pit. I know you'll always have some of that with a raglan, but other raglans, like the Hey June Lane Raglan, fits me better and doesn't do that so much. 

Now, I maaaaaay try this one again. Maybe. I only say that because I used a cotton spandex french terry with quite a lot of stretch. Like 70% or something. So I think  I could make this in something with lots less stretch and possibly like it more. The pattern calls for mid weight knits with at least 20% stretch. So maybe if I used something with only 20% it would fit better. But honestly, as is, I have only worn this maybe twice. (I did make some changes, so maybe that has something to do with it..? I left off the waistband, added 3 inches, and did side vents. Cause I love me some side vents.)

This pattern was another that I kind of guessed I wouldn't like. But I was so desperate for some pants that fit well while pregnant that I ignored my gut. This pattern is more of a dress pant style, with optional back welt pocket and center seaming. It also comes with a maternity option, and so few pants patterns do. Since none of my rtw maternity jeans really fit, I decided to give these a try. 

 These are drafted for stable knits with at least 20% stretch. As I have very curvy hips and legs, and prefer jeans will basically no stretch for a more flattering fit, I knew I wouldn't use a knit. The pattern also says you can use wovens if they have at least 30% stretch. So although that's a lot of stretch in a pant for me, I went for it. I used some 9 oz cone mills denim I got from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. The pattern does have waist, hip, thigh, and calf measurements which I love. It made it really easy to grade to the right sizes to get a good fit - essential for me because my measurements are all over the place. I made the over the belly maternity option and used cotton lycra for the band. I also wanted these to look more like true jeans, so I added faux front pockets, stitched a faux fly, and added the back pockets from the ginger jeans pattern. Although they never even got sewn on.

Because of course, the reason I suspected I wouldn't like these turned out to be true. Using only a mid weight denim with so much stretch for jeans was doomed to be unflattering on me. Although they do fit, I haven't even hemmed or sewn the pockets on them because I have no plans to wear these where any human eyes, including my own, can see them. So, if you like fitted knit pants, you'll love these. 
But they definitely aren't for me. 

I think I'll take these apart and turn them into pants for my daughter. 
Its the perfect denim for nice jeans or jeggings for her. 


So there you go - my five misses this year. I have sewn over one hundred items this year (that includes lots of kid stuff) and these are really the only 5 things that didn't work out so well. I am so pleased with that! Do you have a lot of misses this year? If so, it's ok. That was me last year and it was a year of learning and growth in the sewing arena. And for me and thats worth a lot as it paid off this year with really knowing my style, fabric preferences and how to get a good fit.

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