Thursday, March 23

Scarlett Moto Skinnies Pattern Review

 I made pants! Finally! These are also the first item from the #notyourmamassewingchallenge that I have completed this year..which is kind of pathetic but oh well. I used the Scarlett Moto Skinnies pattern from Laela Jeyne Patterns. This pattern is incredibly versatile because it has the option of a plain solid pair, (like mine) or moto stitching, back pockets, front pockets, flat feld seams, a woven waistband with a side zip or a knit waistband.

I made the totally boring option with no flat feld seams seams, no moto style, no pockets, with the woven waistband with the invisible side zipper. Very boring. But thats kind of my style. I like plain solid boring pants. I actually wanted to do the flat feld seams but I needed to perfect the pattern for my body before doing those, hence - plain. 

To start, I used this olive stretch twill from Fabrics Universe. I got it for like $5 a yard on Black Friday so it was perfect for my wearable muslin. It has about 20% stretch across the grain and no vertical stretch. The pattern calls for only 2-10% stretch wovens, so I knew I'd have to make some alterations. I just started with my measurements and cut that size (well - sizes, my hips are 2 sizes bigger than the rest of me so I graded sizes) and then made modifications as needed. Basically I sized down almost 2 sizes after all was said and done because of the extra stretch in my fabric. 
I added 2 inches to the rise. I have full hips (#pearprobs) so I found the drafted rise quite short. Granted I pretty much prefer all pants to be high rise, so you may prefer the rise as-is, which is about 1-1/2 to 2 inches below the navel. I cut off an inch at the bottom (I'm 5'8") to make them cropped length. I had to remove a 5 inch wedge at center back, but most people wont have to do that. Since i raised the rise to hit at the the waist, which is smaller than the high hip, there was excess room, and then factor in that I always have worse back gap problems than other people. After that, the waist band needed to have 1.5 inches removed on the fold of the pattern piece. But all of that was easy enough and were simply made to fit my body and/or because I used a stretchier fabric. 

The pattern also comes with an e-book on fitting pants. It addresses all the issues that come up when trying to make pants and is very helpful. I had to make the 'camel toe adjustment' which involved just taking a deeper seam allowance in front, and the 'back gap adjustment.'  The book its very clear with diagrams showing you what the problem looks like, making it easy to diagnose on yourself, and instructions on how to correct the fit issue. 

The only problem I have with this pattern - which wont matter to some, especially if doing the knit waistband - is the side zip. I find invisible zippers to not work on fitted garments. They can't seem to zip when there's any pressure or resistance and as these are skinnies, they are fitted so there is some resistance. My sister in law is in an incredible seamstress who makes wedding dresses and does alterations for brides, and she always has problems with invisible zippers, too. She did lots of alterations for brides who's invisible zippers wouldn't zip even though their dresses fit. My zip went in beautifully but just wouldn't zip past the waistband seem. I actually had the zip unpicked halfway when I took these photos, so the top is just safety pinned closed...haha. I am going to unpick the whole thing and just put in an exposed zipper I think. I know thats weird but at least they'll zip.

The pattern has actually been updated since I made this pair in testing to slim the back leg and remove that excess width. I need to make a new pair now and try out that fit, but I want to find some stretch denim or twill that has 10%  way stretch. This pair isn't insanely comfortable because of the lack of vertical stretch. Do you have fabric suggestions? Places I should look?

You need to go check out the other testers versions because they look 1000% more amazing than mine. You got to check out the motto style! For that alone, you need this pattern. But it is cool to see how versatile they are when you compare by super boring plain pair to the other amazingly detailed ones, that look like a completely different pattern.

 Also - not to be an enabler...but the Scarlett Motto Skinnies are on sale for $7.75 right now!

1 comment:

  1. These look fabulous! Sounds like the fit guide was really helpful. I'm on the lookout for stretch twill. I feel like I've seen some at LA finch fabrics, imagine gnats, and RCF.


Go ahead, you know you want to...